Anything Auto Immune

Archive for the ‘Autos’ Category

My dad was about to drive to work, when his car wouldn’t start! Since he was already running very late, he resorted to taking a bus to work. Unfortunately, since my dad was used to having a car, he did not estimate the traffic and thus, came to office late. He kept on arriving late at work for three consecutive days, which made his boss called his attention.

Being late was something my dad wasn’t used to and did not like! He then decided to have the car the fixed as soon as possible. Although he was running short on cash, what he did was apply for a fastcash at an online money lending company. And with easy qualifications and fast services, my dad was able to receive the car repair money he needed the following morning! The fastcash was really a lifesaver for my dad, he was able to receive the cash he needed at a time he needed it! He got the car fixed!

The platform for the project was a Ford F250 pickup. (Many deer hunters prefer 3/4-ton pickups because of their greater load-carrying capability) The truck had previously been fitted for serious offroad duty so it was a natural choice for our upgrade.
Though I had no complaints about engine performance, I kit that the special demands of the deer hunter called for a transmission modification—one of B&M’s specialties. Brian Appelgate of B&M told me, “Hunters stress transmissions in several ways.They usually carry huge loads into camp, and they often tow utility trailers. Guys who hunt in the mountains require their trucks to climb steep hills, and these trucks often see rugged offroad duty, including deep mud. AU this creates heat, and heat is a certified transmission killer.”
Hunters who wear suspenders and belts are no-nonsense types who take nothing for granted. The same philosophy guides B&M’s recommendation for a pair of auxiliary coolers. The SuperCooler automatic transmission cooler and the SuperCooler engine oil cooler work together to keep the automatic transmission fluid and the engine oil nice and cool, even while the truck is pushed to the max.
B&M’s second recommendation is designed to improve the performance of the automatic transmission.The ShiftPlus electronic shift improver kit electronically recalibrates the transmission’s hydraulic system in order to eliminate “gear hunting.” Doing so not only improves shift performance but helps to reduce heat buildup. The result is better performance and longer transmission life.

Deer hunters are an opinionated lot. I know; every year in camp I get an earful about the “ultimate” truck for deer hunters. Funny thing, though. No matter where I roam, the essential premise boils down to a pair of basic concerns: performance and storage. As one hunter put it, pulling on his red suspenders for emphasis, “There must be a way to get a truck that can crawl through the mud and climb steep trails and carry all my gear into camp—plus get my deer back home:’
The search for this truck led to a joint venture that combined the talents of two very different companies: B&M Racing & Performance, and Deezee. Initially, I feared the venture might become the ultimate clash of cultures—B&M is a West Coast high-performance company that cut its teeth on racing; DeeZee is a Midwest-based manufacturer run by hard-core hunters that built its reputation by designing and building heavy-duty running boards, grille guards, and storage and dog boxes.
But, like the fortuitous accident that yielded vulcanized rubber, B&M and DeeZee bonded instantly. That’s because both understand the particular needs of the hunter.

Heat is the unavoidable byproduct of power generation, and hardworking or trucks need all the cooling capacity they can get. That’s why it’s Important to understand that your truck depends on three separate fluids to dissipate heat: engine oil, automatic transmission fluid (ATF), and antifreeze/coolant, If any one of these systems underperforms, the whole system will suffer. We’ve just discussed the role of engine oil above. As for coolant, it’s best to buy a high-quality brand that resists the buildup of rust and scale in the water jackets of the engine block and heads as well as the radiator Check the condition of the coolant at regular intervals with an inexpensive coolant system checker, available at any auto parts store.
A mixture of 50 percent water-50 percent antifreeze is a good compromise that will cover most situations. A fresh 50-50 solution will deliver boil-over protection to 265° F and freeze-up protection down to -35° E II’ you live in an area that experiences severe winters, you might want to use a 35 percent water-65 percent antifreeze solution, which will provide protection down to -67° E.

The lowly dipstick remains a great diagnostic tool—if you know what it’s telling you. After you check the level of the oil, look closely at the color. Though oil discolors over time, it should not look like tar. If it does, and especially if it smells “burned,” it’s time for new oil.

Synthetic oils were first developed during World War II and came under a spotlight during the energy crises of the 1970s. When compared to a conventional petroleum-based product, synthetic oil offers improved low temperature operation and better lubrication in high- temperature situations. Synthetics use the same viscosity and service category ratings as regular oil. In addition, some experts believe synthetics perform better in severe-duty situations. But, and it’s a big but, synthetic oil costs $2 to $3 more per bottle than regular oil.

Although volatility is related to viscosity, it is even less understood. By definition, volatility is “the characteristic of liquids to become a vapor when heat is applied.” The problem is that low-viscosity oils, which are often recommended by vehicle manufacturers because they help the vehicles achieve federal fuel economy standards, tend to evaporate more easily than high-viscosity oils. Owners who use low-viscosity oils often report excessive oil consumption, but the problem is actually evaporation, if you have experienced this problem, look for an oil that has been specially formulated to resist evaporation.

Viscosity is an often-misunderstood term. It is commonly referred to as the “weight” of an oil, but weight is not a factor in how well an oil performs. By definition, viscosity is “the resistance to flow exhibited by a liquid.” The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) uses a numbering system to represent an oil’s viscosity at a specific temperature. The higher the number (30, 40), the more resistant (thicker) it is to flow. The lower the number (5, 10), the easier (thinner) it flows.
What does that mean to you?
Engine oils are required to work under extremely demanding conditions. For example, oil must flow easily at very cold temperatures in order to help cool and lubricate the engine. Consider the ice fisherman in Minnesota who tries to start the engine when the temperature is -10° F But the oil must also supply proper lubrication at very high temperatures. In this case, think of an Arizona angler towing his bass boat to Lake Havasu when the desert temperature tops 100°F.
Back when single-viscosity oils were the only choice on the market, some truck owners had to use a high-viscosity oil in summer and then switch to a low-viscosity oil in winter to ensure proper engine oil operation. Fortunately, modern oils are multi-viscosity, which means they are formulated to meet the challenging conditions of winter and summer. Such oils will carry a split viscosity designation such as SAE 5W-30, 1OW-40, or 1OW-50. (Note: the “W” in such designations does not refer to “weight.” It means the oil is rated for winter.)
If you live in an area where summer temperatures are moderate, but winter is foot-numbing cold, go with a 5W-30 oil. If you live in a more temperate climate, you can opt for a 1OW-30 or 10W-40 oil. The former is best where winters are cold but not bitingly so and where summer sees a few 100° F days; the latter is the choice if you experience mild winters but endure long periods of hot weather— and if you regularly tow a trailer or haul heavy loads, If you live in the desert where temperatures exceed 100° F for weeks at a time, go with 20W-50.

Additives are supplements designed to extend the life of the oil and enhance its operating qualities. Major additives include:
1. Detergents. Remove grit and other contaminates from operating parts.
2. Foam Inhibitors. Limit the formation of bubbles (foam) created by rotation of the crankshaft and rods, which helps the oil pump work at maximum efficiency.
3. Oxidation Inhibitors. High engine temperatures can create acids that attack metal surfaces. These additives help the oil resist thickening and sludge formation.
4. Friction Modifiers. Reduce friction losses, which help improve fuel economy and power.
5. Anti-Wear Compounds. Help protect components under heavy load (such as the crankshaft rod and main bearings) from premature failure.
6. Corrosion Inhibitors. Reduce rust and wear damage created by acids and moisture.
7. Pour Point Depressants. Improve the ability of oil to flow at very low temperatures. (Used in so-called “winter oils.”)
8. Viscosity Index Improver. Helps stabilize the oil’s flow capabilities by assisting the oil’s natural tendency to fight changes of viscosity with temperature change.

Reduced to essentials, engine oil is designed to perform two jobs: 1. lubricate (that is, reduce the friction between the engine’s moving parts, such as the crankshaft, bearings, pushrods, and piston rings); and 2. cool (remove the heat created by friction and combustion). Though most folks believe that the primary mission of oil is lubrication, oil company technicians will tell you that cooling is really far more important.
The reason for this is simple: The coolant and radiator can remove only part of the heat created in the modem engine.The vehicle really depends on circulating oil to remove heat from such key components as piston rings, rod and main bearings, timing chain and gears, cylinder walls, and cylinder heads. And here is where penny- pinching on oil filters can hurt you big time:A cheap filter clogs more easily, and a clogged oil filter can hinder oil circulation to the point where cooling ability is so compromised that major mechanical fail- tire—such as burned-out pistons and failed bearings—will result.
All right. Now you know why oil is so important. Next question:
what kind of oil should you buy?
Look for the “doughnut” and the “starburst” on the side of every container of quality engine oil. The starburst is the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee’s (ILSAC) certification mark. It means the product has not only met the service ratings created by the American Petroleum Institute (API) but also met additional fuel economy requirements.
The doughnut contains the API Service Rating (the oil industry’s “bottled-in-bond” equivalent).This is a rating system developed by the API that defines the operational standards that the oil was designed to meet. In essence, it is a measure of the quality of the additives in the oil. Gasoline engine oil is designated SE, SF, SG, or SH (the most current); diesel engine oil is designated CC, CD, CD-Il, CE, or CF-4. Don’t worry too much about the designations. All you need to do is check your truck’s owner’s manual. It will tell you which to use.
You can always step up a grade. For instance, if you own an older truck that carries the SF designation, no harm will come if you use SF, SG, or SH oil. However, never go the other way. The performance of newer trucks that require the use of SH oil will suffer if you add SF or SG oil.You will probably void the warranty as well.