Anything Auto Immune

Archive for January, 2010

Additives are supplements designed to extend the life of the oil and enhance its operating qualities. Major additives include:
1. Detergents. Remove grit and other contaminates from operating parts.
2. Foam Inhibitors. Limit the formation of bubbles (foam) created by rotation of the crankshaft and rods, which helps the oil pump work at maximum efficiency.
3. Oxidation Inhibitors. High engine temperatures can create acids that attack metal surfaces. These additives help the oil resist thickening and sludge formation.
4. Friction Modifiers. Reduce friction losses, which help improve fuel economy and power.
5. Anti-Wear Compounds. Help protect components under heavy load (such as the crankshaft rod and main bearings) from premature failure.
6. Corrosion Inhibitors. Reduce rust and wear damage created by acids and moisture.
7. Pour Point Depressants. Improve the ability of oil to flow at very low temperatures. (Used in so-called “winter oils.”)
8. Viscosity Index Improver. Helps stabilize the oil’s flow capabilities by assisting the oil’s natural tendency to fight changes of viscosity with temperature change.

Reduced to essentials, engine oil is designed to perform two jobs: 1. lubricate (that is, reduce the friction between the engine’s moving parts, such as the crankshaft, bearings, pushrods, and piston rings); and 2. cool (remove the heat created by friction and combustion). Though most folks believe that the primary mission of oil is lubrication, oil company technicians will tell you that cooling is really far more important.
The reason for this is simple: The coolant and radiator can remove only part of the heat created in the modem engine.The vehicle really depends on circulating oil to remove heat from such key components as piston rings, rod and main bearings, timing chain and gears, cylinder walls, and cylinder heads. And here is where penny- pinching on oil filters can hurt you big time:A cheap filter clogs more easily, and a clogged oil filter can hinder oil circulation to the point where cooling ability is so compromised that major mechanical fail- tire—such as burned-out pistons and failed bearings—will result.
All right. Now you know why oil is so important. Next question:
what kind of oil should you buy?
Look for the “doughnut” and the “starburst” on the side of every container of quality engine oil. The starburst is the International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee’s (ILSAC) certification mark. It means the product has not only met the service ratings created by the American Petroleum Institute (API) but also met additional fuel economy requirements.
The doughnut contains the API Service Rating (the oil industry’s “bottled-in-bond” equivalent).This is a rating system developed by the API that defines the operational standards that the oil was designed to meet. In essence, it is a measure of the quality of the additives in the oil. Gasoline engine oil is designated SE, SF, SG, or SH (the most current); diesel engine oil is designated CC, CD, CD-Il, CE, or CF-4. Don’t worry too much about the designations. All you need to do is check your truck’s owner’s manual. It will tell you which to use.
You can always step up a grade. For instance, if you own an older truck that carries the SF designation, no harm will come if you use SF, SG, or SH oil. However, never go the other way. The performance of newer trucks that require the use of SH oil will suffer if you add SF or SG oil.You will probably void the warranty as well.

As you may have figured out by now, changing engine oil regularly is vital to your engine’s health and longevity.Yet, it’s a detail many truck owners neglect. In fact, a recent survey conducted by the American Automobile Association discovered that nearly one-third of the target vehicles were In need of an oil change. Even more disturbing, the oil level in many of these vehicles was 1 quart low. Given the high cost of engine rebuilds, as well as the prohibitive price of a new truck, this is a senseless waste of money.
Why isn’t the oil changed more often? There are a number of reasons, ranging from ignorance to indolence.
Some owners believe theft new truck is practically maintenance free.This is probably the result of improved mechanical reliability and the elimination of some service procedures (periodic lubrication, for one). Unfortunately, as a result, some owners have concluded they can go 10,000 miles between oil changes.That just isn’t so. Although service intervals are much longer than in the past, that mainly applies to cars. Four-wheel-drive owners need to service theft vehicles much more frequently.
To find the proper service interval, consult the two maintenance schedules found in the owner’s manual. One schedule is for normal operation; the other is for so-called “severe” service. Outdoorsmen need to follow the latter in almost all cases.This schedule is designed for anyone who operates a vehicle in dusty, rough, muddy, or salt-spread roads; who goes on short trips (less than 5 miles) repeatedly; who lives where outside temperatures remain below freezing for long periods of time; who engages in extensive idling and/or low-speed driving; or who tows a trailer or uses a camper or roof carrier.
When you compare the two schedules, you’ll note that the severe service schedule generally requires oil changes to be made at nearly twice the rate of the normal service schedule. That’s because the kinds of driving outlined above can wear out the oil faster and Introduce more contaminates (such as dirt and grit) into the system at a higher rate. Think of it this way: if you shoot your rifle more often, you have to clean it more often.
Failure to follow the schedule can void the warranty—and don’t think you can fool a qualified technician. They know that most owners change the oil infrequently, and a quick glance at the engine can tell them whether you’ve done your job or not.
“The big problem is that many people think they’re doing regular oil changes even when they’re not,” a service technician told me. “I’ve had guys come in with a bad engine and claim they change the oil every three months, but one look tells me they haven’t changed it all year. Many people simply have no idea when the oil was last changed.”
Despite the manufacturer’s recommendation, many owners feel a once-a-year oil change is good enough. Those in this group complain about the cost (as well as the inconvenience) of oil changes. if you think more frequent oil changes cost too much, consider this: I can change my truck’s oil four times a year for about $100. Compare that to the cost of a rebuilt engine, and tell me who’s wasting money.
Another false economy involves replacing the oil filter every other oil change or buying bargain-basement filters. This kind of penny-pinching is short-sighted and costly in the long run. Aftermarket additives may be another reason some owners hold off on oil changes. As one mechanic told me, “You spend $19.95 for an additive, don’t tell me the guy’s gonna dump it out after only three months. I’m not against additives, but they can’t take the place of regular oil and filter changes:’
Another common misconception involves vehicles that are used for short trips. Just because you don’t put a lot of miles on your 4×4 is no reason not to change the oil frequently. In fact, short trips are worse on oil than long ones.The oil doesn’t warm up enough to boil off hydrocarbons and other contaminants.And if these don’t boil off, they’ll eventually wear out the cylinder walls.
Under the right circumstances, many 4×4s are capable of very long lives, whether measured by the mile or the year. You feed your dog and take it to the vet, don’t you? You do it because he’s your hunting partner, right? Well, so is your truck. Keep it in good running order, and it will there for the long run.